Jeon Somi
Andrea Trimarchi
Anya Chalotra
Charlie D'Amelio
Ellie Bamber
Emma Chamberlain
Emma Watson
Gwendoline Christie
Hunter Schafer
Juergen Teller
Juliette Binoche
Letita Wright
Lily James
Ma Yili
Matilda Lutz
Mei Nagano
Prim Patnasiri
Rina Sawayama
Taeri Kim
Thomasin McKenzie
Tracee Ellis Ross
Yara Shahidi
Andreas Gursky, Jacques Herzog
Charlie D'Amelio, Derek Blasberg
Ellie Bamber, Lily James, Thomasin McKenzie, Anya Chalotra
Ellie Bamber
Emma Watson, Hunter Schafer, Letita Wright
Gwendoline Christie, Prim Patnasiri
Hunter Schafer
Jeon Somi
Juliette Binoche, Emma Watson
Ma Yili
Matilda Lutz
Mei Nagano
Prim Patnasiri
Rina Sawayama
Taeri Kim
Tracee Ellis Ross, Amandla Stenberg, Mei Nagano, Ma Yili, Yara Shahidi
Tracee Ellis Ross
Yara Shahidi
对历史的本能吸引。Miuccia Prada和Raf Simons携手打造的2024年Prada秋冬系列,将时尚巧妙融入历史的碎片中,深度探索美的概念,呈现一个由记忆编织而成的当代世界。时光中流淌着一抹悠久的浪漫。
历史知识不仅让人了解当下,更是成为历史的塑造者——服装如同时光机,将不同时代、其他时刻的精髓融入其中,同步的回响在被重新解读的语境中焕发新意。“历史”似乎是一种工具,一种学习的媒介,而在这里,它被巧妙地运用来孵化全新的创意。然而,这个系列不是对理智的冷静审视,而是一场情感的回响,对依然引人共鸣的美的理念做出的深情回应。
过去的影响深刻地雕刻出当下的时尚面貌。当下的经典服饰——如机车夹克、飞行员夹克、针织衫——融合了历史元素,通过线条和细节的巧妙变化,呈现出独特的时尚风采。片段的概念不仅贯穿在嵌入其他服饰的元素中,还体现在凸显身材曲线的单品之中,以别致方式展示出时尚层次。半身裙的面料呈现出细腻与力量的鲜明对比,娇柔的真丝与优雅的精裁羊毛相得益彰。
整体廓形窄长,夸张的垂直感使其更显纤细。鞋履与帽子将比例推向极端,而服饰直接表达了女性独特的柔美气质。相应地,女性的优雅姿态渐入人心:手袋悬垂于臂弯间,太阳镜如同妆容的微妙回响。探索生活的方式演变成创造的基石,将人类生命中那些无形的印记变得具体可见。
透过物质的具象和再塑,形式语言得以转变,感知也因此而改变。传统上富有男性气质的材质经过巧妙的改造,焕发出内在的女性魅力。重新审视老套的女性元素,诸如蝴蝶结、褶边、荷叶边。它们为何仍然存在? 它们为何具有吸引力?
以问题为切入点,激发回应,时装秀宛如与世界展开的一场精彩对话,是思想交流的华丽舞台。这种天生的本能,这份渴望沟通和表达的欲望,是人类根深蒂固的冲动——透过我们所选择的衣着,用触感传递情感,实现心灵的交流。
“The collection was so resonant, so bittersweet, echoing hope and dread equally, keen to endorse love and beauty as universal values, simultaneously aware that love and beauty aren’t enough when the grinding gears of history are reducing human beings to nothing. It was a bold, provocative proposition, and the duo showed clothes to match. Prada and Simons broke history into fragments which they then reconfigured in artful ways.“
BOF
“The stylistic duo gives the audience moments of lucid beauty in dresses and silhouettes, where every reference makes memories flow where they were entangled in years and years of fashion.”
Il Corriere della Sera
“This is why the reaction of Miuccia Prada, who together with Raf Simons has created a collection of surprising delicacy, is so remarkable. The two creatives delved into the past to track down garments and details.”
La Repubblica
“Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, at Prada, are precisely questioning history. What interests her as well as Simons is contextualization, the liberating gesture that resignifies, […] The collection is delightfully sharp yet full of grace.“
Il Sole 24 Ore
“Prada and Simons built that human complexity into their collection, and they did it in modest and tender ways, too. The designers also evoked the glamour of the 1950s, with a series of opera coats and off-the-shoulder cocktail dresses in what looked like black or purple silk taffeta. But when you find out the fabric is technical nylon, the styles escaped their historical cage. The final black coast dress, with a fitted bodice and a high neck, was just superb.”
The Cut