美の瞬間、歴史の証、人生の片鱗。ミウッチャ・プラダによるミュウミュウ 2024年春夏コレクションは、爆発し、正される現代の美しさの論拠を探求します。絶え間なく変化し続ける世界において、美しさは私たちの時代の複雑さに同調しなければなりません。今コレクションは、反射的な定義、現代の美しさの反応的な対応を模索します。そこにあるのは、厳格なパラダイムではなく、急進的な拡大、豊かな多元性です。美しさは1つではなく、無数にあり、それぞれの個性、人生の喜びを受け入れることにあります。
ランウェイには、エディ・アルドリッジ、メイ・アンダーソン、マメ・ビネタ・サネ、ペトラ・コリンズ、ローズマリー・ファーガソン、アメリア・グレイ・ハムリン、ジジ・ハディッド、トロイ・シヴァ、リウ・ウェン、キャロリン・ウォルターが登場し、ケイリー・スピーニーがショーを締めくくりました。
生きている証としての衣服。過去に使用され、現在も愛着のあるという概念を誇張された時間の流れとして、ウォッシュ加工、ヴィンテージ加工、ダメージ加工が施されたスエードとレザーに表現しています。原型的な衣服の概念が重要性をもちます。スイムウェア、スポーツウェア、イブニングウェア。メンズのスイムパンツ、キッドモヘアのテーラリングアイテム、アンティークなアンダーウェア、New Balance 530、チャーチのShanghai、刺繍とブロケードが施されたエレガントなドレス。意義のあるデザインの概念を、客観的で有益な意図のあるつながりを通して表現しています。機能やシチュエーションといった特定の目的のためにデザインされたウェアが、スイムウェアとカクテルドレス、ペチコートとブレザーなど、意外性に満ちた組み合わせでリミックスされています。
“Last day of the show season, and Miuccia Prada’s Miu Miu gave a fabulous sendoff to Spring ‘24. She said she usually has a theory about fashion — the collection was called “A Rationale of Beauties” — but this time she worked without a theoretical safety net and showed “what I really, personally like.” The reference in her show manifesto to “the joy of life” came straight to the point of clothes that were, in fact, joyous. Inclusive too, not only for the co‐ed spirit, but also for the ease with which Miuccia mixed genders, decades, cultures high and low. As twisted/straightforward as a polo shirt and a pair of jeans accessorised with a big sparkly necklace (they’d be real diamonds if she was wearing them), or a black brocade coat with a little back bow, classic couture, thrown over a speedo and a tiny pelmet skirt, or a schoolboy blazer over bermudas. Mocassins! Monkstraps! Combinations which looked they’d been casually, spontaneously thrown together from a whole pile of swimsuits, uniforms, underwear, sportwear, evening wear and vintage (or “touches of history” in manifesto‐speak), all of it revolving around the hip‐ slung silhouette that has turned Miu Miu into a sales sensation.”
BOF – Tim Blanks
“Want to know what you will wear next? Quite possibly a rah-rah skirt so short it shows your rear end or (if you are of a mind-set that eschews rah-rah skirts) a pencil skirt or pair of trousers or even pair of men’s swim trunks that sit so low on the hips they flirt with bumster-dom. They’ll probably be cinched with a wide leather belt or at the very least expose the elastic logo waistband of your underwear. With them, a schoolboy striped Oxford shirt, navy V-neck sweater and navy blazer. Or maybe you’ll forget the pants and skirts entirely — too much to think about! — and just toss a jeweled flapper wrap dress or a gold brocade opera coat over your shirt. Then you might stuff an extra pair of shoes, the kind that gave you blisters so you had to put Band-Aids on your heels but you love them so you’ll take them anyway, into your handbag before sprinting out the door. The Miu Miu brand — not to mention Mrs. Prada’s whole aesthetic — has quietly become one of the most influential in fashion.”
New York Times – Vanessa Friedman
“Miuccia Prada’ s Spring/Summer 2024 Miu Miu show continued her exploration of reality-driven styling, with dishevelled layering, lived-in knitwear and short-shorts and colourful plasters fixed to the feet as an accessory. The momentum Miuccia Prada has created with the real-girl look she started carving out some four seasons ago reflects and impacts a current desire for realness. Because when you talk about Miu Miu that word keeps popping up: real. On the final day of the show season, she amplified and almost fetishized that idea as real-life real-girl representatives Sydney Sweeney, Emma Chamberlain and Mia Goth looked on from the front row. Prada re-established the Miu Miu silhouette that’ s seen recent collections fly off the shelves: skimpy hemlines expressed in knickers (worn as daywear), shorts and tiny tennis skirts paired with oversized blazers, bombers and coats. Triangular tops styled with low-slung tailored trousers continued the Y2K vibe beloved by a new generation of shoppers. The collection was underpinned by a decidedly preppy mood that riffed on an American idea of ease: crested jackets over polo shirts over shirts worn with Bermuda shorts.”
Vogue UK – Anders Christian Madsen
“Bringing down the curtain on a confusing and emotionally fraught season, it took the great Miuccia Prada to give such a coherent, empathetic and confidence-building show for women, by a woman. Miu Miu was a brilliantly confirming run-through and remix of all the clothes we love, hoard, and rely on; the basic and the glittery, the sporty and the bonkers. The unconventional combinations of garments—apparently happy accidents of styling—were aimed, Prada communicated in a press release, at an “embracing of unique characters, the joy of life.” Her bespectacled Miu Miu characters in action were going about their business dealing with feeling everyday messy (yet also looking great); greasy hair, coats thrown over nighties, sloppy old unbuckled saddle shoes included. Some were lugging handbags stuffed with a change of footwear, as you do. In a season when there’s been so much talk about the need for ‘real’ clothes, straight-up Miu Miu polo shirts, Oxford shirts, trench coats, and school uniform jackets were all present and correct—but then worn with Prada’s favorite underpants or funny short frilly techno-tutus topped with tracksuit drawstring waistbands.”
Vogue Runway – Sarah Mower
“Mrs. Prada fascinating spring show was chockablock with such odd fashion bedfellows, like a petticoat with a blazer, or Neoprene shorts with a polo sweater and overcoat. She had mashed up a variety of archetypes — among them security guards, surfers, schoolgirls, preppies and librarians — and gave the models nerdy glasses, colorful Band-Aids on their heels and toes, and matted or frizzled hair. It felt like an anti-glamour statement, although glamor was never far away. It was there in the chunky crystal necklace draped over the collar of a navy polo shirt; in the chunky heels shoved into multipocket handbags, and the gleaming gold brocade sheath dresses mangled up with business shirts. Miu Miu’s micro skirts and pants-free silhouettes continue to influence many other runways, and Prada didn’t abandon those ideas, just as she never really go of borderline homely sweaters, here styled under sparkly flapper dresses, and handsome leather or suede car jackets, here tossed over swimming trunks or what have you. The runway cast — which included actors Troye Sivan, Cailee Spaeny and Mame Bineta Sane — reinforced the feeling of character studies, rather than trend mongering.”
WWD – Joelle Diderich