Miuccia Prada’s Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2022 collection specifically recalls the brand’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection. It takes the concept of ‘using the existing to create the new’ one step further: here the garments themselves are quotations, based on the same ideas and producing fashion that evolves into something more: a style or attitude. The same idea is also conveyed through the introduction of garments made of upcycled leather, while pleated skirts and rhombus-emblazoned knitwear express a sort of obsession with tennis. Proportions have been re-examined and given extra momentum in fresh interpretations of classic checked tweed and lace dresses, and Swedish artistic duo Nathalie Djurberg & Hans Berg have created a special collection of jewellery, following on from their digital artwork for the catwalk video and materials for the show space. This is a fashion show for everyone, free from gender divides and communicated through casting that embraces a wide spectrum of different identities. Show attendees included globally renowned actresses like Aimee Lou Wood, star of the Netflix series Sex Education, Nicola Coughlan from the series Bridgerton, Ever Anderson, soon to feature in the film Peter Pan & Wendy, and Tina Kunakey with Vincent Cassel, as well as leading figures from the art world such as Carsten Höller, Philippe Parreno and Camille Henrot.
Relevant clippings:
For fall, the designer made the look the main event, giving girlishness a neopreppy school uniform flavor leather-clad misfits in the mix to keep things interesting. What was on the runway also had a sense of transgression, with scandalously short skirts, shirts and the briefest of HotPants …. side-laced leather pants and Frye-type boots had a more boyish rebelliousness. (The collection was intended to be free of gender binaries, and had all kinds of models walking the show).
WWD
This Miu Miu show felt, somehow, like a profound and meaningful shift, a true embracing of the moment and, maybe, a utopian echo of a not too distant future. It used an existing attitude – a bold and exciting one – to jolt fashion out of its conventions, and offers a fresh perspective. It shifted something. And that felt truly new.
AnotherMag
Building on the new chapter that she embarked on last season, Miuccia Prada served up what we all want after the pandemic: a fun, flirty vision of a new world without dress codes or gender distinctions.
The Impression
Miu Miu, meanwhile, stuck to last season’s hit recipe, but added new shapes and a dash of gender bending. It worked, youthfulness oozing from the label’s deranged take on classics.
BOF
On the last day of Paris Fashion Week, Miu Miu didn’t just close a month of shows, but made it come full circle. The collection Miuccia Prada presented last October hit this season with trendsetting force….. This season, she doubled up on her original message.
Vogue.co.uk
Those expecting a new look, contrasting with what came before, will be disappointed. Instead the same idea has been reviewed, considered and expanded upon. And it succeeds […] The freshness and dry yet courteous irreverence are striking.
Il Sole 24 Ore
[…] Miu Miu has set the boundaries of a certain style rather than a wardrobe, devising ultra-captivating pieces that can be worn far beyond a single season. The volumes and lengths have been reworked to avoid time constraints and to promote a new type of attitude.
Vogue.it